Soft Actives: Rethinking Acids with Botnia

Let’s Talk Acids. 

Skincare acids get a bad rap. And for good reason: many are way too harsh. But when used thoughtfully, they can support your skin’s natural exfoliation process, helping to clear away dead skin cells and reveal smoother texture and a more even complexion.

Why Molecule Size Matters

The size of the acid molecule matters more than you’d think. Smaller molecules, like glycolic acid, go deeper into the skin, which can trigger inflammation and sensitivity. That’s why post-peel skin needs extra care, and why sun exposure after exfoliating is a no-go. Bigger molecules, like lactic and mandelic acids, work more slowly and stay surface-level, making them gentler and safer for most skin types.

The Acids We Use (and Don’t Use)

Glycolic acid: It’s the smallest-molecular acid that penetrates deeply into the skin. Powerful, but used in the smallest amounts in Toner to gently exfoliate. You might also see glycolic used in a facial depending on what your esthetician is targeting.

Beware of high concentration glycolic acids you see on the market. Anything over 20% is too much and should be left to skincare professionals. When used incorrectly, these acids can cause irritation and inflammation in the skin. Keep out of the sun and use SPF after receiving a treatment that includes glycolic acid.

Lactic acid: A medium-molecular acid that’s hydrating and gentler than glycolic acid. Good for sensitive skin. Lactic acid is used in our cleansers to help balance the pH of your skin while washing. 

Mandelic acid: A large-sized molecular acid that’s ideal for acne-prone, sensitive, and melanin-rich skin. It works on the surface of the skin providing gentle exfoliation with none of the sting. Try our newest mandelic acid, Fade Serum! 

You won’t find BHAs like salicylic acid in our line because we find that they strip the skin barrier.

Botnia’s Gentle Approach

Think of our acids like a microdose for the skin, just enough to support renewal without overwhelming your skin barrier. I believe in gentle, steady care that lets your skin do what it’s naturally built to do. If you have questions about incorporating acids into your skincare routine, simply reach out and our master estheticians will guide you to gentle and effective products tailored just for your skin.

xo Justine from Botnia